Photo by Joe Cattoni (aka. epoJoe)
Shortly after my article on the Clix QR system, Devin Riley at Clix sent me in one of their QR’s to play with. He shipped me one attached to a Shimano front hub with an RST fork.
At first, I just started playing with the Clix in the RST fork. To my surprise, I was able to hold the heavy RST fork in one hand while quickly removing and latching the hub with the other. It was almost too good to believe! Was this really a QR that wasn’t going to require re-tensioning and could be operated with one hand? To find out, I installed the Clix QR on the Fox F29 of the Ellsworth Evolve.
Installation of the Clix QR
Clix provides excellent installation instructions with their product, but to be honest with you…if you can’t install the Clix without the instructions…you probably shouldn’t be working on a bike. Installation is extremely simple.
- Un-thread the lock-nut and “no-spin” adjusting nut off the QR skewer.
- Install the wheel onto the fork and thread on the “no-spin” adjusting nut (there is no spring on this side of the QR).
- Adjust the QR to the proper tightness…you want the resistance to start when the lever is halfway through its stroke.
- When that adjustment is made…re-install the lock nut so it is flush with the adjusting nut. It is not supposed to be tight against the adjusting nut.
- You’re done!
The Clix QR In Action
Like I said…it is pretty easy to install. Once the QR is installed, there is no longer any need to adjust it ever again. This one handed operation is correct every time. That is the beauty of the entire system. You no longer have to adjust the tightness of the skewer every time you reinstall the wheel.
As you can see from the videos, it is almost a one-handed operation. Your other hand is normally needed to help the rotor into the caliper or to make sure the QR is fully seated. The big picture here is having a correctly adjusted QR every time.
Another great feature of this system (that you can also see in the video) is that if the lever ever releases while riding, the wheel can not leave the dropouts. I released the lever and hit the top of the wheel repeatedly, and the wheel never came close to falling out of the dropouts.
I am of the firm belief that QR’s are not suitable for today’s mountain bikes, but the Clix Wheel System is by far the best out of the bunch. It seems to address every issue that QR’s have had in the past. You can only get these QR’s on bikes through OEM suppliers (Cannondale, Trek, Gary Fisher), but hopefully they will release these to the aftermarket as well.